How to Get Your Knives Razor Sharp?

Knives are a common fixture in our everyday lives, be it in the kitchen, workplace or the great outdoors.  What is fairly uncommon however, is someone who knows how to keep their knife sharp and how to discern what “sharp” really is. Hopefully this article will help to divulge a few secrets to the mystery that is making and keeping a knife sharp.

While there are extreme lengths one can go to in chasing the ultimate sharp edge on their EDC, this tutorial will teach you how to keep a good working edge on most any cutlery.

There are a few steps to this system, but with some practice, care and attention being paid; anybody should be able to effectively sharpen their knives using this method with very little invested for the results achieved.  The system is comprised of the following steps.

Assess the damage

Discerning what damage has occurred to the edge is a revealing first step.  Looking at the knife edge from both the side, and head on will show what kinds of damage has happened.

When looked at from the side you can see small breaks in the line that makes up the very edge of the knife, these are either rolls, or chips… both of which you will be removing. The depth of the chips taken out of the blade will indicate how much metal along the entire edge you will have to remove to keep the same general shape of your knife.

Also looking at how thick behind the edge itself your knife is would be a good idea at this time, if your blade has been binding a lot in material after a few sharpenings and isn’t cutting as effortlessly as it once used to then chances are it needs a bit of thinning out behind the edge.

De-stressing the metal

The very first step is called de-stressing the edge.  The steel at the edge of your dull knife is weak and essentially ruined from the abuse it’s received over time.  It’s important to get rid of this damaged steel in order to reveal the fresher, stronger steel that lies beneath.

To do this you must take the knife and draw it through your sharpening stone which will blunt the edge, as well as expose good steel. Hold the edge perpendicular to the stone when doing this and use very, very light pressure.

Determine your sharpening angle

This next step involves finding what angles to sharpen at if you don’t have any specific tools for doing so. You can test how thick or thin your knife needs to be based on your own use and how it ends up after you initially sharpen it, but for now let’s start at 15 degrees per side.

How do you measure 15 degrees?  Take a piece of paper, each corner is a 90 degree angle, if you fold that angle at the corner in to thirds you will have a wedge that is a total of 30 degrees. Half of that is 15 degrees. This will be the angle you want to hold your knife against the stone while thinning out behind the edge and creating a bevel.

Use the sharpening stone

To start begin abrading the full length of the edge along a coarse stone (about 220-350 grit is probably fine) which is relatively flat. I recommend doing an even amount of strokes on each side if the bevels are already equal, otherwise you will have to use your better judgment as to how much steel must be removed to make the bevels equal.

Start out by making sweeping strokes using as much surface area of the stone as possible and working in sections as necessary, making sure to maintain the same angles even at the tip, and making sure not to let the tip of the knife slide off of the stone, this can cause rounding or even chipping of the tip of the blade.  Relatively light pressure is all you should need, with the stone doing much of the work.

Eventually you’ll know when to stop at this stage on both sides before creating a “burr”, but for now just abrade material until on the other side of the blade there is a tiny burr developed.

A burr is a thin strip of abraded metal which accumulates on the side of the blade opposite the one you’ve been grinding on. You can generally slide your fingernail off the edge and the burr will scratch your nail. Once the burr is created on one side, drag the knife through a piece of wood a few times to knock the burr off or reduce it, and then ensure the same is accomplished on the other side (developing and removing a burr).

Generally a burr is inevitable but as you improve your skills you should be able to get to the point where you’re creating only a super fine burr which you can’t really see or feel.  In creating a sizable burr and removing it, the metal on the very edge of the knife may be pretty sharp, but also extremely weak. This metal has been stressed by being bent back and forth as well as having the burr ripped off. The steel on the edge has fallen victim to the same properties that occur when you bend a spoon back and forth many times, the metal weakens until it just breaks.   At that point you’d have to de-stress the edge yet again to get rid of this weaker steel and you’re basically back to where you started.

Now you should have a primary edge bevel with which to work. You can raise the grit of stones and do higher polishes if you wish from here.

Applying the micro bevel

Once the primary edge bevel has been created, you will have to apply amicro bevel. This is the part of the “edge” that is doing the actual cutting. The bevel portion is just there to be thin and look pretty.  The micro bevel will also serve to remove any fine burr still left over from the previous step.

To apply the micro bevel to the primary edge you’ve already created, take one of the more coarse stones you’d used when making the edge bevel, and begin with that.

Using strokes across the whole if not most of the blade, make edge leading strokes at a slightly higher angle than the one you’d used to create your edge bevel.  This marginally wider edge makes for a stronger cutting edge, thus increasing overall edge retention.

For most people 20 degrees is ideal, but just raising the spine of the blade a hair above that angle guide made in earlier step works just fine.

Making alternating strokes keep the edge of the blade as perpendicular to the movement you make across the stone, so the scratch pattern goes perpendicular to the orientation of the edge itself, if not turned towards the handle a bit, this will leave an edge which will cut better in tasks where the knife is slicing in a pull cut, which is most common.  Super light strokes here folks!

After a good amount of alternating strokes you should feel an edge developed, keep checking and making lighter and lighter strokes, and increasing the fineness of the stones you’re using if possible. After this step you should have a pretty nice working edge, but you can take it a bit finer if you’d like.

Stropping

Stropping an edge is generally the final step, it will hone (and sometimes sharpen if you use abrasives on your strop) an edge and align the teeth created by the scratches from the stone this can be done with a piece of flat cardboard, newspaper, blue jeans, or commonly a leather belt (though using a proper strop is recommended if available).

Instead of using edge leading strokes as though you’re trying to shave off a piece of whatever you’re doing them to (the sharpening stones) instead you will drag the edge backwards over the strop, alternating sides with each stroke and using a light touch, this will leave the edge performing just a little better than it did before, with a higher level of keenness.

If you’d like to take it a step further, you can apply any number of abrasives to your “strop” and they will refine the edge even further, while it’s generally not necessary for most every day cutting tasks, it can be fun to see just how far you can take your edge sharpness. Experiment with varying abrasives on your strop and see what works best for you and the knives you have.

With technique and patience you’ll be able to produce insanely sharp blades.

Maintaining your edge

After a while your knife will go dull once again.  I don’t care if you have the best premium steels out there, it’s just going to happen eventually.  Depending on how far you let it go, it will either need a light touch up, or totally re-doing the whole process again.

In general I recommend most average users maintain the 15 degree per side edge bevel, but if you’re finding your edges aren’t going dull at all, you can actually just keep the 15 degrees per side bevel and strop that next time, just keeping it thinned out instead of making a micro bevel. This will improve performance by a huge degree, but will leave an edge which may not last as long.

Conversely, if you find your edge is going dull faster than you’d like, raising the angle a bit more when putting on a micro bevel should help remedy this situation. Either way, unless your blade is really beat up, you should be able to maintain your knives without thinning them out again for a reasonable amount of time, and just putting on a micro bevel and stropping the blade. Once the knife isn’t cutting very well, just repeat all the steps over again and you’ll be back in business.

From www.pknife.com

Choosing a Folding Knife Blade Steel

Blade steel is one of the most important aspects of a knife, but it's also a complicated subject filled with jargon. You can read thousand-page books on the subject and still lack knowledge. To help parse the information surrounding blade steel

This next section barely scratches the surface of choosing a blade steel for a pocket knife and we highly recommend checking out the full guide that some of the info is taken from

The first version of this guide broke down the steels between stainless and carbon steels (as do most sites), but the reality is that neither term is really correct. All steels contain carbon and not all stainless steels are truly stainless.

So, Zvi broke it down into five very general aspects to consider when selecting a blade steel.

1. Intended Use: As with choosing any aspect of a pocket knife, you should have a general idea of how you will use the knife. For example, if you're cutting abrasive materials like rope or cardboard, you might want to consider a more wear-resistant alloy.
2. Blade Geometry: The most important aspect of blade geometry is thickness. Thinner blades sacrifice some strength, but you can make that up in the type of steel the blade is made out of.
3. Edge Geometry: This concerns edge configurations like the V grind or chisel grind. Certain alloys work better at certain angles.
4. Corrosion Resistance: If neglected, nearly all stainless steels can rust, but stain-resistant steels can be a good option if you expect humid or aggressive environments for your knife.
5. Carbon and Tool Steels: If you're not worried about corrosion resistance, there are a lot of great alloys to choose from.

If you're just looking for entry-level alloys with solid performance for mundane EDC uses you can opt for 420HC, 440C, 8Cr13MoV, 8Cr17, 12C27 and many others. After that, it only gets better with high end alloys like ZDP-189, M390, K390, K294, Aogami and Shirogami.

Even though blade steel is really important, it's even more important to keep it maintained. A well-sharpened blade made from low-quality steel will outperform the finest steel that isn't properly kept.

from www.pknife.com

Single-Blade Pocket Knives

Single-blade pocket knives come in many shapes and sizes, but their best qualities are their simplicity and size. Unlike multi-blade pocket knives, single-blade folders focus solely on the design of one larger blade. These knives usually have locking mechanisms that make them stronger and sturdier for more demanding work. They can also have spring-loaded opening mechanisms, allowing them to pop open at a second's notice.

Of course, the disadvantage of a single blade is its lack of variety. These knives are perfect if you're looking for a strong all-purpose knife, but if you're in need of a knife that can saw through wood in one moment and whittle in the next, you're out of luck.

from www.pknife.com

Why We Love Damascus Steel Knives

Knife enthusiasts like Damascus knives for many reasons. That’s a great thing because such diversity reflects versatility inherent in Damascus that is absent from other blades. The history of Damascus steel also draws favor, as it comprises a mystery that offers a sense of intrigue and enhances the ancient tradition dramatically.

The most common aspects of Damascus steel knives that enthusiasts consider ideal are the aesthetics and high performance. Damascus knives boast stylish patterns that metal workers engrave into the blade during the forging process. No two Damascus knives are alike. In fact, each knife is one of a kind and valuable as an expressive work of art.

As for the high performance, carbon-rich metals forged together offer a sense of power from billeting and banding that is alien to many current blade designs. This extends to the molecular composition of the blade as well as the precision and care that are typical in production, making such power synonymous with Damascus design.

Are Damascus steel knives worth owning and using? Again, the answer is subjective. Blade owners would likely agree that Damascus knives serve well in certain contexts over others. Two commonly hailed scenarios are, as described above, the love of the uniqueness in style and artistic patterns, as well as the implementation of weaponry as seen in hunting and military exploits, although many chefs own Damascus knives as well. These knives are quite special and valued. 

From www.pknife.com

Pocket Knife Blade Types

I am often asked about the different types of knife blades.  Here we are talking about the shape of the blade.  There are dozens of different blade types out there but for this article I wanted to concentrate on the most popular types which you will find on most production knives today.  Many of these come in modified variations as knife makers today try to add something new to the market and come up with their own designs.  Still, in one form or another they all originate from these standard blade types.

As always, when choosing the best pocket knife for your needs you should give some consideration to the blade type and ensure it aligns with your intended use.  Lets dive into the different blade types…

The normal (or straight-back) blade is pretty straight forward – it has a dull flat back and a curved edge.  Because the back is not sharp it allows you to use your hand or fingers to apply additional pressure to increase the cutting force.  Overall it’s good for slicing or chopping.  Still, the dull back adds a little weight to the blade so these knives tend to be a little heavier.

The clip-point blade is formed when you take a normal blade and ‘clip’ the back which results in a thinner tip.  This thin tip can be used to cut in hard to reach places and provides some additional control.  A Bowie knife is a classic example of a knife with a clip-point blade.  Usually the clip is concave but it can also be straight.

The trailing-point blade has a distinctive back edge that curves up which allows for improved slicing ability.  The large curve is often referred to as a “belly” and a large belly is particularly useful for skinning.  The curve allows for a more lightweight knife as compared to the normal blade.  This blade style is also popular on filet knives.

The drop-point blade uses a convex curve on the back of the knife near the tip which is the opposite of the clip-point that uses a concave curve.  The convex curve is less suited to piercing but provides more strength than a clip point.  You’ll find many modern pocket knives today having drop point blades as it’s effective in most applications.

The spear-point blade is symmetrical in that is is curved the same on either side of the spine which runs down the center.  They can be sharp on both edges or only on a single edge which is common for penknives.  Typically you will find spear-point blades on daggers and other knives designed for thrusting or throwing.

The needle-point is also symmetrical but tapers much more sharply and therefore is not particularly strong but can be used effectively to pierce or penetrate.  Stabbing is the needle-point blade’s strong point and you tend to see this blade mostly on daggers intended for close range combat just like the spear-point.

The spey-point obtained its name from being used to spey animals.  It has a straight edge that curves upward at  the end with a relatively small clip on the back.  This type of blade does not really provide a point and hence not good for penetrating but very effective for skinning animals.

The tanto knive has a chisel edge inspired by Japanese swords which provides excellent strength.  The tanto name originally referred to the tip of a broken samurai sword which was very effective at piercing armor.  Tanto knives have no belly so will not be able to slice but instead make up for it with tremendous tip strength that can penetrate almost anything.  You’ll find some different varieties of tanto blades and they are becoming quite popular in certain tactical knives.

The sheepsfoot blade is almost the opposite of the normal blade by offering a sharp straight edge and a dull back which is largely straight then curves at the end.   These knives can be closely controlled by your fingers being placed on the dull back and were originally used for trimming the hooves of sheep.  Great for chopping but lacks a sharp point (which can be a plus in many situations as it prevents accidental stabbing).

The Wharncliffe blade is a thicker blade but very similar to the sheepsfoot but the back begins to curve towards the tip much earlier and therefore at a more slight angle.  These blades were typically used by sailors as the shape of the tip was designed to prevent the sailor stabbing himself as a result of being jolted about by the waves.

The pen blade is typically found on smaller folding pocket knives and similar in shape to the spear point blade but with a more gradual curve.  One side is sharp and the other dull just like you find on Swiss Army and similar pen-knives.

As always you should choose a knife with a blade most suited to your needs.  Naturally, there is no single blade type that is suited to all applications so we recommend thinking about what you will be using the knife for most and letting that determine which blade style to get.

from www.pknife.com

Folding Pocket Knife Maintenance: Cleaning and Lubricating

You've probably heard the old adage "a dull knife is a dangerous knife." I'd like to introduce a new adage: "a dirty knife is a dangerous knife." While the internals of a pocket knife are not overly complicated, the function of the knife can impeded by pocket lint, especially around the pivot and locking areas. In the case of the pivot, the knife may to slower or more difficult to open, and buildup in the area of the lock may prevent the knife from locking open or closed, which could lead to serious injury. Prolonged usage and exposure to gritty materials or salt water can even lead to permanent damage to the knife.

For these reasons, it's a good idea to perform regular maintenance on your pocket knives. I like to clean and lubricate mine once a month or so. This is also a great time to inspect your knife for other potential problems like corrosion on the blade or internal components, as well as checking for loose screws.

Step 1: Cleaning

As mentioned above, you'll want to focus on the pivot of the knife and the locking surfaces.

If you've just got some light pocket lint, you can usually use a toothpick, screwdriver, or other probe to remove it.

If you've got sand and grit, you'll likely want to use warm, soapy water and wash the knife with a bristle brush (I like to use an old toothbrush). If you do go this route, go ahead and brush down the entire knife including the blade and the handle scales. Often, this is all it takes to restore your handle scales to their original luster. Don't be afraid to get the internals wet or soapy, remember that's the most important area to clean. Just make sure to rinse well.

If the knife has an excess of sticky or grimy buildup that won't come out with either of these methods, try placing the knife in a bowl of warm water, which should help loosen the grime. A comment below from mentions that one should be careful or avoid using this method on knives using natural materials such as wood, abalone, or mother-of-pearl, and that even synthetic handles may be damaged if left for too long in water at or close to boiling temperatures. Then try the probing method, followed by the wash method. This should take care of even the toughest residue.

If your knife is still gritty or difficult to open, you may need to disassemble the knife for a more thorough cleaning, which we won't cover in this article. You will likely need specialty tools and the process will vary widely depending on what knife you're working on. Many knife manufacturers will also tell you that disassembling your knife will void your warranty.

If you have used either of the wet methods for cleaning your knife, be sure to wipe up any excess water and allow the knife to air-dry for at least 15 minutes before moving on to lubrication. Even if your knife uses stainless steel, it may still be subject to corrosion.

Step 2: Pick a Lubricant

Your pocket knife is a system with moving parts, and as with any such system must be lubricated, especially mating surfaces such as the pivot, locking surfaces, or slides.

The most popular lubricants are petroleum-based wet lubricants, and are essentially the same as gun lubricants or sewing machine oil, although they will claim attributes which make them superior to their competitors.  which I use primarily because it is available to me.

Dry lubricants are often PTFE (teflon)-based and tend to attract less pocket lint. They typically come in either an aerosol can for spray-on application or as a grease tube, and dry on the surface leaving a protective, lubricating 

It is important to remember that if your intend to use your pocket knife for food preparation, such as cutting up an apple, you may want to use a food-safe lubricant. You can use simple vegetable oil, but it isn't very stable and may go rancid. Food-safe mineral oils (such as wood block oil) tend to work well. Plain jane food-grade mineral oil should be available at your local pharmacy (as suggested by several commenters) for cheap also. Personally, I use the petroleum-based stuff just fine. I apply oil sparingly at the pivot, wipe up any and all excess, and rarely find it escaping out into a pocket or onto the blade where it could come into contact with food stuffs. But to each her own!

Step 3: Apply Your Lubricant

When applying your lubricant, your mantra should be "a little goes a long way." Open the knife and apply a drop or two of oil (or a light spray if using a teflon-based dry lubricant) to your pivot and start rotating or cycling the blade (opening and closing repeatedly) to work the lubricant in. With lockback or midlock knives like my Spyderco, you'll want to target the tang of the blade where it meets the lockbar. With liner locks such as the pictured CRKT, you can apply your lubricant on the underside, again making sure to get the locking faces and working it into the pivot.

Your goal is to use just enough lubricant to spread throughout the target area (usually the pivot or locking surfaces) without seeping out onto the handle or blade. An excess of lubricant, especially oily wet lubricants, will actually attract pocket lint and other material, meaning you'll have to clean your knife more often.

If the blade of your knife is made of a high carbon steel (either a high-carbon stainless or a true carbon steel) you may also want to use a preventative coat of lubricant on the blade itself, especially if you use it in or around water or live in an area with exceptionally high humidity. While the Japanese ZDP-189 used in my Spydercos is about 3% carbon (two-to-three times the carbon content of most stainless steels) it is also about 20% chromium, and since I clean my knives regularly, I don't bother coating the blades.

If your knife has wood handle scales such as a Buck model 110, consider rubbing them down with a wood polish or finishing oil 

Wipe off any excess oil and enjoy your knife! 

from www.pknife.com

Butterfly Knife (balisong knives) brief Information

1. Butterfly Knife History
2. Butterfly Knife Construction
3. Anatomy/Parts of a Butterfly Knife
4. Butterfly Knife Care & Maintenance
5. Lessons in Learning to Flip

www.pknife.com

---

1. Butterfly Knife History by Mark Christensen.

A butterfly knife, sometimes called a balisong, is a folding knife with two handles that rotate around the knife’s tang. When the knife is closed, the blade is concealed within the handles. The knife usually closes with a latch that secures the handles.

Due to their irregular construction, butterfly knives can be manipulated differently than traditional pocket knives and can be used to perform tricks.

Where did they come from?

There is currently a debate about whether the butterfly knife originated in the Philippines or in Europe. This much is certain: there is a long history of the butterfly knife being used in martial arts from the Philippines specifically in the kali, escrima, and arnis disciplines.

One version of events states that the balisong originated in the Philippines sometime around 800 A.D. This version of events points to the balisong’s use in ancient Filipino martial arts as proof. People who follow this theory believe that somehow, a Filipino design made it to Europe in the 1600’s.

On the other side, there are documents showing the existence of the butterfly knife in France as early as the 17th century. The French book “Le Perret” shows a sketch of a butterfly knife, and was published in 1710 A.D. The book itself suggests the butterfly knife was developed in the late 1600’s or early 1700’s A.D in France.

The oldest English patent for a butterfly style knife was issued to the German Cutlery Firm of Bontgen and Sabin’s on April 12, 1880. Bontgen and Sabin’s sold many balisongs in the late 19th century. For more information about these documents and some pictures, you can visit here. 

Scholars who believe the butterfly knife originated in Europe, think that the design was carried by French ships to the Philippines in the 18th century.

Balisong or Butterfly Knife?  A Rose by Any Other Name…

There are a lot of stories that you will see about what the term balisong actually means. Spend just a little bit of time on the web looking, and you will see multiple theories. We are certain that the word comes from the Philippines, but beyond that the water gets murkier. Here are the most reputable theories that we have come across so far.

In their 1983 book, The Manipulation Manual for the Balisong Knife, Tom Wei Ding and Tom Wei Toi claim that balisong means “sharp knife.”

Jeff Imada says in his 1984 book, The Balisong Manual, that bali means “break” and “sung” means horn. The handles of the original balisongs, originally called bali sungs, were made from broken animal horns. This theory was seconded by Tai Jo in his 1985 book, Balisong Knife where he explains that balisong can be translated as “broken horn”, “breaking/rattling horn” or “to break the horn”.

Another theory about the origin of the term balisong is that there is a province in the Philippines called Batangas (sometimes, balisongs  are actually called batangas knives.) In this province, there is a city called Balisong. The city is famous for making knives just like for example, the cities of Seki City in Japan, Solingen in Germany, and Maniago in Italy. Balisong is the name of this city, and it has since come to be synonymous with the butterfly knives made there.

The hyphenated term Bali-Song is a registered trademark of Benchmade in Oregon City, Oregon. The term was also used by Benchmade’s previous iterations Pacific Cutlery, and Bali-Song Cutlery.

The word balisong without a hyphen is a generic word.

---

2. Butterfly Knife Construction

When it comes to the construction of a butterfly knife, there are two types that are the most common. There is the “Sandwich Construction” and the “Channel Construction.” Here is a very brief and basic description of the two.

Sandwich construction is a method where there are many parts of the handle that are layered on top of one another and then pinned or screwed into place. When constructed like this, the blade is allowed to rest within a void between the layers. This method, though popular and effective for its purpose, tends to create a handle that is not very sturdy or strong. As the knife gets more use, the layers can slip, or become loose, causing the knife to feel unsecure and shaky. As I said, it is a great design for its purpose, but it does not score well in the longevity department. On top of regular maintenance, there is a lot of time spent tightening screws, and keeping your eye on the latches and pins as well.

The other method of construction that I mentioned is channel construction. This is when the handles of the knife are constructed, or forged out of one piece of material. Also, instead of the blade resting within a void between layers of materials, there is actually a groove for the blade within the handle itself. This groove is created during the creation of the handle itself, either by folding, milling, or being integrally cast. Due to this form of construction, where the handles are made of one solid piece of material, this generally makes the knife stronger and more durable for use. Last, but certainly not least, with this construction form, you could expect this form of Butterfly knife to last quite a long time (with proper maintenance and care, of course).

When it comes to measuring the pros and cons between these two types of construction, a lot of it obviously relies on personal preference and opinion; You’ll have to draw your own conclusions. However, if looking at the sheer mechanics of the knife from the first step of creation to the time it is in your hand, the channel construction is a much safer bet.

---

3. Anatomy/Parts of a Butterfly Knife by Anna Gardner

What is a Butterfly knife? A Butterfly knife is a folding knife with two handles counter-rotating around the tang (part of the knife where the blade is extended out of and usually where the handle is attached to), such that, when closed, the blade is hidden within the grooves of the handles.

Other NAMES: “Balisong”, “Fan Knife”, “Batangas Knife”, “Click Clacks”, “Bente Nueve”,

CONSTRUCTION: “Sandwiched” or “Channeled”

Sandwiched: Assembled in layers that are generally pinned or screwed together. Pivot pins can be adjusted tighter without binding. When knife is closed, the blade rests in between the layers of the handles.

Channeled: Each handle is formed from one piece of material. The groove (where the blade rests when knife is closed) is created by folding, milling, or being integrally cast. Channeled construction is known to be stronger than the sandwiched construction.

PARTS

Bite Handle: The handle that closes on the sharp edge of the blade.

Choil: Small curve found on some knives just above the kicker, that makes it easier to sharpen the blade.

IKBS: Ikoma-Korth Bearing System. A high end ball bearing system that maximizes smoothness, found in high-end custom Balisong knives.

Kicker (or Kick): Area on the blade that prevents the sharp edge from contacting the inside of the handle and suffering damage. This is sometimes supplanted by an additional tang pin above the pivots.

Latch: The standard locking system, which holds the knife closed. Magnets are occasionally used instead.

Latch, Batangas: A latch attached to the bite handle.

Latch Gate: A block inside the channel of the handles stopping the latch from impacting the blade.

Latch, Manila: A latch attached to the safe handle.

Latch, Spring: A latch that utilizes a spring to propel the latch open when the handles are squeezed.

Safe Handle: The handle that closes on the non-sharpened edge of the blade.

Spine: The thickest par of the blade, the blade spine would usually be at the back (top) of the blade.

Swedge: Un-sharpened spine of the blade that is angled to appear as if it were sharpened.

Tang/Ricasso: The flat section of the base of the blade where the handles are attached with pivot pins.

---

4. Butterfly Knife Care & Maintenance by Amanda Carbajal

Inspect Your Knife!

If your butterfly knife is constructed with screws, tightening the screws on a regular basis will prevent the knife parts from separating, and will keep the movement smooth. You may want to use a quality thread locker such as Loctite Blue 242 on the screws to keep them firmly in place. Just one tiny drop will be plenty for each screw. If your butterfly knife is constructed with pins, inspect them periodically to make sure they are in place and are tight. Check your knife regularly for any debris or damage. If your knife is covered under a manufacturer’s warranty, you’ll want to have them service the knife for you in the event of any damage.

Clean Your Knife!

A well cleaned butterfly knife will last longer than a dirty one. Grime, dust, and even fingerprints can harm the blade, as well as any moving parts. We recommend a knife cleaner such as Benchmade Blue Lube Cleanser to keep your blades clean and free of debris. In a pinch, a little bit of mild soap and warm water will clean it right up. Be Sure to dry the knife thoroughly, inside and out, to avoid rusting.

Oil Your Knife!

Your knife needs to be oiled after every cleaning, and periodically through the year. Use a high quality lubricant on all pivot points, and on the blade. This helps prevent rust and keeps it looking good and moving smoothly. Benchmade Blue Lube is a great wet lubricant, though it must be applied carefully to avoid stickiness. Tuff Glide by Sentry Solutions is a dry lubricant that won’t attract dust like a heavier oil would. One to two drops on each moving part of either lubricant will be plenty. Apply a thin layer on the blade to keep the steel rust-free and looking good.

Sharpen Your Knife!

We all know that a sharp blade is safer than a dull one. Anyone can sharpen a knife properly, given the right tools. A knife sharpening system is a great investment, as most of them will work for any blade. Look for one that comes with detailed instructions, like the Spyderco Sharpmaker, which comes with an instructional DVD. Having your knife professionally sharpened periodically is a good option too.

Remember: Inspect, Clean, Oil, Sharpen!

---

5. Lessons in Learning to Flip by Thomas Cox

Have you ever watched someone flip a butterfly knife and think, “Oh, that looks easy”? Well, I did and I was completely wrong. Luckily, the first knife I bought was a butterfly trainer. After a weekend of constant practicing I realized that flipping a Balisong is all about using the momentum of the knife while making sure your fingers are only making contact with the back of the blade.

The basic way to flip open a butterfly knife is to fling the one handle and the blade open, letting the ‘fling’ of the blade and ‘twist’ of the wrist build momentum, and spin the handle you’re holding.

Here are the steps to flipping a butterfly knife:

1. In your Right hand hold the butterfly knife by the handle connected to the dull side of the blade.
2. Tilt your hand backward so that the other handle falls over the top of your hand.
3. Continue tilting your hand and move your hand at the wrist in a counter-clockwise circle.
4. Allow the momentum of the handle and the blade spin the handle you’re holding 180 degrees.

I practiced this basic move in slow motion for an entire weekend. After a while I felt comfortable flipping it faster and realized that I didn’t have to smack my knuckles every time I swung open the knife.

If you’re having a hard time following these written instruction, you are not alone. Like reading a foreign language, you will understand more as you practice and gain experience. Also, there are many instructional videos available online (just check out YouTube.com).

Once you’ve mastered the basics of flipping a Balisong, you’ll be able to perform tricks, flips, and spins that will no doubt impress anyone.